The above 2-D topographic map shows
the Kaibab Plateau with contour lines at 250 foot intervals.
The deepest part of the Grand Canyon is found where the
Colorado River cuts across the Kaibab Plateau. The South Rim (lower
part of both pictures) is the area most people visit. To the east of
the plateau, the Colorado River flows southward through the Marble
Canyon section. The Little Colorado River (extreme right edge of both
pictures) joins the main river just before the Colorado turns west
through the plateau.
Kanab Creek flows southward to join the Colorado on
the west side of the plateau and another tributary, Havasu (Cataract)
Creek, flows northward in the lower left corner. One of the clues to
the origin of the canyon can be observed on the west side of the
plateau where the river is almost parallel to the contour lines.
The contour lines on the west side of the Kaibab Plateau
tell us that the topography was different when the path across the
Kaibab was first established. If water exists on a slope, then it will
normally flow downhill at right angles to the contour lines. Here the
river is almost parallel to the contour lines. (Can be seen on both
sides of the canyon away from the river.) The path of the river on the
west side of the plateau is a record from an earlier age when downhill
was northwestward toward the top of the page instead of today's down to
the southwest. This old topography has been altered by more recent
uplifts, but the Grand Canyon is telling us a story. All we have to do
is learn how to listen.
For those who don't want to read the
whole story of how the canyon was formed, here is a brief outline.
During the late Cretaceous (about 70 million years ago),
the ancestral Little Colorado River flowed west-northwest through
Mesozoic sediments directly above today's route between the north and
south rims. From the Kanab Creek junction the ancestral Little Colorado
continued north into Utah. The first uplift of the plateau occurred in
Laramide time, and the ancestral Little Colorado cut a canyon in the
Mesozoic sediments. There was a second uplift of the plateau in early
Oligocene/late Eocene time (35 to 45 million years ago). The Little
Colorado abandoned the ancestral canyon but continued to flow northward
to the east of the Kaibab Plateau. However the ancestral canyon
remained as a low area crossing the Kaibab.
During the mid Miocene (15 to 20 million years ago), the
Hualapai River (another ancestral drainage system) established a path
from Kanab Creek to the Grand Wash Cliffs. About 10 million years ago,
the rising Wasatch Ranges in Utah started to block the ancestral
Colorado River's westward course across Utah. The backup system that
formed behind the Wasatch bottleneck extended from northwest Colorado
into eastern Arizona. About 5.4 million years ago the backup system
overflowed through the ancestral canyon across the Kaibab, and the
Colorado River established its current path. From Kanab Creek, the
Colorado used the path established earlier by the Hualapai to continue
westward to the Grand Wash Cliffs. A third uplift of the Kaibab Plateau
has occurred in the last 5 million years.
Contour intervals 100 feet.
The above picture shows the South Rim near the main visitor area. It
also traces the path of Coconino Wash from the lower right corner to
where it exits the picture above the center of the left edge. From a
tourist point of view, Coconino Wash isn’t much to look at, but
it is of considerable geologic interest. First, Coconino Wash ignores
the overall downward slope which is toward the lower left corner
(toward the southwest). It also ignores an erosional weakness zone
along the Bright Angel Fault (SSW to NNE railroad track near the left
edge), and instead continues its path to the west-northwest on the far
side of the fault. (Other minor tributary washes also defy the slope
and the Bright Angel Fault.)
Coconino Wash is thus ancestral to both the current
topographic tilt and the Bright Angel Fault. It is a remnant of early
Tertiary topography when downhill was toward the west-northwest. In all
probability it was a tributary to the ancestral Little Colorado River
(L.C.R.) which was also flowing west-northwestward a little further to
the north. Instead of turning south off the left edge as it does now,
this ancestral version of Coconino Wash turned north to join the
ancestral L.C.R. at the present location of Hermit Canyon. (Upper left
corner)
During subsequent uplifts of the Kaibab Plateau, Coconino
Wash did not have the erosive power to cut a major canyon to preserve
the old path. Thus at the west end, Coconino Wash abandoned the old
connection to the ancestral L.C.R. and turned southward to follow the
new surface tilt. However, a small local drainage inherited the local
connection to the ancestral L.C.R. This is now Hermit Canyon which is
one of the largest “Nick points” in the South Rim portion
of the Kaibab Plateau. (Note: On the South Rim to the south of Hermits
Rest, minor tributary washes still hook in to Hermit Canyon as part of
this old drainage system.)
Also please see: The Kaibab Plateau
http://www.durangobill.com/PaleoAppendPart9.html
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