View to the south with
contour intervals of 100 feet. Page, AZ and Lake Powell are on the left
edge. The Paria River originates in Bryce Canyon National Park some 40
miles north-northwest of here. It enters the view area from the lower
right corner and cuts southeastward up and across the Paria Plateau to
form Paria Canyon instead of taking an easier route eastward following
U.S. Highway 89. At the lower end of Paria Canyon the Paria joins the
Colorado River at Lees Ferry which is the “put-in” location
for Grand Canyon raft trips.
Just off the right edge, Wire Pass Canyon joins Buckskin
Gulch which continues eastward just this side of the state line to
eventually join the Paria. The area is characterized by narrow slot
canyons and colorful patterns (ancient wind-blown sand dunes) that are
exposed in the Navajo Sandstone. “The Wave” is a popular
hiking/photographic destination that is fractionally off the right edge
near the Arizona/Utah state line.
If you look at today’s topography, it appears the
Paria should follow highway U.S. 89 down to Lake Powell and the
Colorado River. If it followed this easier route, it could stay under
4,670 feet. Instead, it cuts uphill into the Paria Plateau’s
rising strata and topography where contours would exceed 6,000 feet if
you filled in Paria Canyon. Buckskin Gulch is already entrenched in the
Paria Plateau where it first becomes visible at the right edge, and
then flows eastward to join the Paria River just north (this side) of
the Utah/Arizona border.
About 5.4 million years ago the Colorado River abandoned
its old westward course across Utah when the rising Wasatch Ranges
blocked this ancestral path. The Colorado relocated to its present
course when the resulting backup system overflowed into an ancestral
canyon across the Kaibab Plateau. This old canyon had been cut and
abandoned by the ancestral Little Colorado River some 30 million years
earlier, but the remnants of the old canyon still provided a path
across the Kaibab at the 6,300-foot level. After the Colorado shifted
to this new path it started cutting today’s Grand Canyon.
The area to the east of the old Wasatch route (and the new
Kaibab route) was covered by a large flat valley that was in turn
covered by a silt backup system. All of this area was near or above the
6,300-foot escape route of the Colorado River. This included the area
shown in the picture, with everything (except the highest portions of
the Paria Plateau) covered by a flat silt plain.
When the Colorado River established its path across the
Kaibab Plateau, the Paria River settled into its current path
circumventing the highest portions of the Paria Plateau, and oblivious
to the fact there was hard Navajo Sandstone just underneath it. When
canyon cutting from the Colorado worked its way back upstream, the
Paria also started to cut down in its path. It quickly became stuck in
a rut and ever since has continued to dig deeper into its entrenched
path.
Meanwhile the surface rock along the lower edge of the
picture (including the flat open area used by the highway) is the much
more easily eroded Carmel Formation. There is little vegetation in this
desert area, and when thunderstorms do occur, the heavy rain erodes the
Carmel. The much harder Navajo Sandstone on the Paria Plateau (center
and upper right of the picture) resists this rain erosion; and thus
protects the high areas of the plateau. (The Navajo dips downward
toward the north (foreground), and thus underlies the Carmel at the
lower edge of the picture.)