The view below shows the
northwest end of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River. Contour
intervals are 100 feet. The south rim visitor area of Black Canyon
National Park is just above the center of the lower edge. The
river flows northwestward through the high plateau ignoring an easier
route toward the southwest (left edge).
In the distance, the Smith Fork River originates in the
West Elk Mountains (off the right edge of the picture) and flows
westward (toward the left) just north of the northernmost lake to
eventually join the Gunnison River. This is parallel to the contour
lines and thus ignores today's topographic (and stratigraphic) slope,
which tilts down toward the north.
A little closer (near the county boundary), Red Canyon
also cuts east to west to enter the Gunnison. It too ignores the
topographic and stratigraphic tilt. Both of these rivers reflect
ancestral topography when downhill was toward the left (west) instead
of today's downhill toward the north.
Red Rock Canyon starts at the lower edge (left of center)
and continues north through the high ridge on the south side of the
Black Canyon to join the Gunnison. This high rim is on the upthrown
side of the Cimarron Fault. The Cimarron Fault parallels the left edge
of the picture (and then curves southeastward to the lower edge) and
vertical displacement on the fault separates the lowlands to the west
from the high plateau that the Gunnison River has sliced through to
form the canyon. Near the left edge, an abandoned canyon also cuts from
south to north through the ridge. This canyon is dry now, but at some
point in the past there was a tributary stream here. Both of these
canyons are remnants of an ancestral topography that existed before the
Cimarron Fault was active. In the earlier time period, the plateau had
not been uplifted yet; hence there was no barrier to northward flowing
streams.
The picture below shows the southeast end of the Black
Canyon with contour intervals again at 100 feet. The south rim visitor
area of Black Canyon National Park is near the left edge of the picture
while a portion of the West Elk Mountains can be seen in the upper
right quadrant.
Near the lower edge of the picture there are four
interesting breaches of the high south rim. The westernmost of these is
another abandoned canyon between the visitor area and Poverty Mesa.
Hairpin Creek (lower left corner) probably continued northward through
this old canyon at some point in the past.
Further east (to the right) the Cimarron River cuts
through Cimarron Ridge (upthrown side of the fault) from south to north
at Cimarron (a short distance west of the boundary between Montrose and
Gunnison counties). Just to the east of the county line, an abandoned
high valley cuts across the ridge. In the not too distant past, the
Little Cimarron River formerly crossed the ridge here, but subsequently
it found an easier route by taking a more westerly course to join the
Cimarron River on the south side of the ridge. Thus, the old breach was
abandoned. Finally, Blue Creek forms another south to north breach
through the ridge at the extreme lower right corner.
Crystal Creek is also of interest. It originates in the
West Elk Mountains and flows southwestward across the county line to
join the Gunnison in the Black Canyon. The lower end of this path is
significant as it is stratigraphically (and smoothed topographically)
uphill. If the stream path followed today's topography, it would turn
north to follow the downward tilt toward the top of the picture
(through the two lakes).
Standard Explanation
for the Origin of the Black Canyon
The standard geologic explanation for the formation and
origin of the canyon assumes the strata layers have been static since
early Tertiary time (at least 50 million years ago). In this standard
scenario, the entire area was covered with softer sedimentary layers
and the Gunnison established a route across the top of these layers.
Then it started to cut down through these layers and became entrenched
in its present course. Further downcutting then formed the canyon.
While, this sequence has been accepted for many years, it ignores an
impossible contradiction - thus another explanation is required.
The contradiction is a result of the high plateaus the
river cuts through (west of the county line in the "southeast" view
above) vs. multiple Oligocene and Miocene volcanic tuff deposits that
virtually surround the town of Gunnison a few miles upstream (off the
right edge of the picture). The high plateaus (west of the county line)
exceed 9,000 feet above sea level. Dakota Sandstone surfaces these on
the north rim and much older Precambrian rock on the south rim. If the
strata for these plateaus had been static, then the river originally
would have to be at least 9,000 feet above sea level when it first
established a route across this surface, and higher still if there were
any deposits on top of these layers. More important, the entire river
basin upstream from this point would also have to be above 9,000 feet
until after the canyon was cut.
If we go upstream from the Black Canyon to the town of
Gunnison, we descend to 7,700 feet. Gunnison is virtually surrounded by
Oligocene and Miocene volcanic ash (tuff and welded tuff) that can be
found down to the 8,000-foot level. This is material that fell from the
air to an exposed ground surface some 20 to 30 million years ago. The
important part is the 8,000-foot marker. As noted above, the high
plateaus would force all upstream elevations to exceed 9,000 feet until
after the canyon was cut. Yet the volcanic tuff deposits require an
upstream exposed surface at 8,000 feet. Thus, the high plateaus had to
be much lower when the volcanic ash was deposited so that erosion could
produce an exposed surface at 8,000 feet. Hence, the high plateaus are
not static. They were not uplifted until recently. We thus present the
following sequence that seems to be a better explanation for the origin
of the Black Canyon.
Formation and Origin
of the Black Canyon
The first step is to look at the canyon to see if
this gives any clues to its age. The most impressive feature of the
canyon is its extreme depth relative to its width. At the Narrows it is
1750 feet deep and only 1300 feet wide. (Roadside Geology of Colorado -
page 282.) This depth to width ratio of 1.35 is greater than that of
any other canyon in the Colorado River system. (2nd place goes to the
Little Colorado River where it cuts through the K-T Limestone. If you
just consider the inner gorge portion of the Grand Canyon, the Muav
Gorge section between Kanab Creek and the Toroweap Fault ties for
second.)
Thus the depth/width ratio is greater than any section of
the Grand Canyon. The ratio is nearly three times greater than the 0.5
depth-to-width ratio where U.S. highway 89 spans Glen Canyon just below
Glen Canyon Dam. This is even more remarkable as the canyon walls in
Black Canyon are subject to much greater weathering (including ice
wedging) than conditions in the Grand Canyon.
All of the other canyons in the Colorado River system that
have large depth to width ratios are young. Most have been carved since
the Colorado River found an escape route across the Kaibab Plateau 5.4
million years ago. Thus the extreme depth to width ratio of the Black
Canyon requires that the Black Canyon is young - very young. It has
taken at most (and probably less than) 5.4 million years to cut the
2,000-foot depth from today's rim to the canyon floor.
At the end of the "Standard Explanation" section we noted
the high plateau north of the Cimarron Fault had to be lower at some
time in the past. It appears that activity along this fault has lifted
the plateaus some 3,000 feet in the last 5 million years. Thus 5
million years ago, the plateaus were 3,000 feet lower. (Note, USGS
earthquake records show a small amount of activity near and south of
the Cimarron Fault, but the required rate of uplift implies greater
seismic activity should exist. Either the rate of uplift has moderated
recently or the last few decades are merely a temporary lull in
earthquake activity. The steep gradient of the Gunnison River in the
canyon favors the temporary lull option.)
Now that we have determined the age of the Black Canyon,
we'll go back to the early Tertiary (Paleocene and Eocene time) before
the West Elk Mountains, or the Cimarron Fault (and the Black Canyon
Plateaus) existed to give the whole history of the canyon. The
ancestral Gunnison River originally formed in the late Cretaceous /
early Tertiary. To the east of the present town of Gunnison, the
drainage pattern for the river was essentially the same as it is now.
However, from Gunnison, the river continued west across the present
location of the West Elk Mountains, and then turned more northward
toward the Lake Uinta lowlands.
In the late Oligocene (about 30 million years ago)
volcanic activity broke out to create today's West Elk Mountains. The
old path of the Gunnison across this area was blocked, and it was
forced to make an end run around the south side of the West Elk
Mountains until it could get far enough west to turn north again. Then,
during early Miocene time, all the major rivers west of the Continental
Divide turned west to flow into Utah. The ancestral Gunnison was part
of this pattern and took a more westerly course (than it does now) to
join the Colorado River at the east end of Unaweep Canyon.
By about 6 million years ago the Gunnison abandoned the
Unaweep Canyon route to approximate its current course. The exact path
is unknown as the entire present valley north to Grand Junction was
part of a large flat valley system. By 5.4 million years ago, at least
the northwest portion of today's canyon was covered by an extensive
silt backup system as the rising Wasatch Ranges in Utah blocked the
former westward escape route of the Colorado River.
Tributary streams that were the ancestors of today’s Smith
Fork, Red Canyon, and Crystal Creek flowed westward from the West Elk
Mountains. On the southwest side of the Gunnison River, other
tributaries flowed northward to join the Gunnison. The Cimarron Fault
had not become active yet and today's high Gunnison Plateau was still
at low elevations. Thus, there was no obstruction to this northward
flow.
After volcanic activity in the West Elk Mountains came to
an end, the magma pool that had been feeding the eruptions subsided
somewhat. This displacement initiated the Cimarron Fault causing the
surface to drop on the northeast side of the fault, and leaving a small
scarp (higher area) on the southwest side. The ancestral Gunnison River
settled into its current path along the base (northeast side) of this
scarp.
About 5.4 million years ago the Colorado River found a new
route across Arizona's Kaibab Plateau and started digging the Grand
Canyon. As exit elevations for the Colorado River Basin were lowered,
canyon cutting and erosion worked back upstream. When this activity got
to the Gunnison Plateau / Black Canyon area, all the major rivers and
streams in the area became entrenched.
The uplift phase on the northeast side of the Cimarron
Fault began at some point after all the rivers and streams were
entrenched. The Gunnison Plateau was subsequently lifted to its present
elevation. On the northeast side of the river (extending toward the
West Elk Mountains) this uplift produced today's northward tilt.
However, the old streams coming down from the West Elk Mountains were
entrenched and to this day still maintain their old westward courses.
On the southwest side of the Gunnison River, uplift on the
northeast side of the Cimarron Fault presented a problem for all the
tributaries coming in from the south. Those rivers and streams that had
enough erosion power were able to cut down through the rising block.
The streams that had less erosive ability eventually abandoned their
old paths.
Finally, the Gunnison itself is a big river. It was even
bigger during the ice ages and was carrying a lot of glacial silt. The
hardest Precambrian rock was no match for this abrasive power. While
the plateau rose, the river acted as a stationary band saw and cut the
canyon.
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